If you don’t want to hike up the hills between
neighbourhoods, use Lisbon’s effi cient public
transportation system. Preloading a viva viagem
or ‘zap’ card gains you touch-pass access to trams,
elevators, funiculars, buses, trains (rapid transit),
and the metro (subway). The bumpy trams are part
of Lisbon’s heritage, similar to San Francisco’s cable
cars. The landmark Santa Justa elevator connects
the neighbourhoods of Baixa and Chiado. This mini
Eiff el tower was designed by Raoul Mesnier du
Ponsand, an apprentice of Eiff el’s and off ers clear
360-degree views of Lisbon.
St. Jorge’s castle looms over Lisbon like a
guardian angel. Strategically located on Lisbon’s
highest hill, this eleventh-century castle is visible
from most points in the city. Reconstructed on a
Moorish fortress, the thick castle walls were a safety
net for citizens during an invasion. Today, it is
Lisbon’s most popular tourist destination. A walk
along the walls between the watchtowers provides
unobstructed views of the cityscape. Surrounding
the castle is the red-roofed Alfama quarter, where
you can step back in time to get lost for an afternoon
in a maze of narrow, medieval-like streets.
Barrio Alto and the upscale Chiado
neighbourhoods off er a variety of dining and
shopping options. This area of Lisbon is also
home to the deceptively understated San Roque
Cathedral and remnants of the earthquake stricken
Igreja do Carmo, once Lisbon’s largest church. To
Ginjinha chocolate shooter cups
Palace da Pena Grounds
art lovers, the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga is
like opening Pandora’s box, overwhelming you with
too many paintings, sculptures, and artifacts for a
one-day visit.
A short bus or taxi ride will take you to the
adjoining district of Belem, home to many historic
sites. The St. Jerónimos Monastery, built in the
1500s, is a grandiose example of Manueline
architecture. Used by sailors for prayer before their
dangerous journeys, the church and photogenic
cloister have been restored to pristine condition. Its
walls of history make you feel small but somehow
connected at the same time. Across the busy
Avenida de Brasila via an underground walkway is
the Age of Discovery monument. This 52-metre-
high structure was completed in 1960 to honour the
mariners who once made Portugal a world power.
To see a more modern side of Lisbon, a half-hour
metro ride will bring you to the futuristic Oriente
station at the Parque das Nações. This was the site of
Expo 98 and is home to Lisbon’s largest mall, tallest
building, and suspended cable cars off ering a great
view of the riverfront. However, the key attraction
is the Oceanarium. With its Jetson-like design, it
is Europe’s largest aquarium and one of the best
designed in the world. The ocean-like central
aquarium is the focal point around which the other
displays rotate. It succeeds with its goal to educate
and amaze you at the same time.
As a seafaring nation, it is no surprise that fi sh
tops the menu in Lisbon. Grilled sardines are a
news&views WINTER 2019 | 37