news&views Winter 2023 | Page 40

Recipes That Bind : The Enduring Legacy of Community Cookbooks

Jane Thrall | Article and Photos
Growing up , we didn ’ t have many cookbooks in our home , just a couple of time-worn standards that probably dated back to the Pliocene epoch . We had a box of recipes cut from newspapers and women ’ s magazines , the popular ones frayed at the edges . My mother typed up index cards with a few of her favourite recipes , and we had the community cookbooks .
This was long before the specialty cookbooks of today — the keto , gluten-free , low-GI , fancy cookbooks featuring recipes with photos and step-by-step instructions . Back in the 1970s and ’ 80s , we relied on the trusted recipes of our friends and neighbours , and we shared our own family recipes with them .
The result was a plethora of self-published community cookbooks , often fundraisers for a new hall , playground , or school library . They were put together by curling clubs , hospital auxiliaries , and parent groups . Almost exclusively coordinated by women , these cookbooks contain a wealth of culinary knowledge and history .
Self-publishing a community cookbook was no easy feat . A committee of dedicated volunteers would have to spend hours going through submissions , balancing soups and salads , casseroles and cakes . This task fell largely on the shoulders of the women-led auxiliary groups of the local parish , club , or school .
Full of comfort foods , they weren ’ t always low calorie nor what we would consider “ healthy ” by today ’ s standards . During difficult times the recipes were simpler — having fewer ingredients and made with what was readily available . Bacon drippings , lard , and shortening were commonplace in the older books .
These cookbooks were filled not just with recipes , but measurements , conversions , tips , and quips . They often featured anecdotes , memories , and unique
stories . These collections were a way of connecting people , their recipes , and their culture .
One of Canada ’ s first fundraising cookbooks was published in 1877 in support of Toronto ’ s Hospital for Sick Children . In less than ten years they sold 100,000 copies of the book , a huge success by today ’ s standards , let alone 150 years ago . The cookbook included advice on housekeeping , social observances , and table talk in addition to recipes . Reprints of The Canadian Home Cookbook can still be found , providing a snapshot of life in the nineteenth century .
The enduring legacy of these vintage community cookbooks lies in their ability to safeguard our shared memories for future generations . Over the years , these treasures have withstood the trials of time , serving as cherished heirlooms that connect the past to the future . Each book is a snapshot of the community at that moment and the recipes reflect the culture and diversity of the region the book came from .
Recipes could differ based on whether they were from a rural community or an urban area . The cookbooks reflect the origins of the people , strongly influenced by their heritage . The rural prairie cookbooks I have in my collection have recipes for cabbage rolls and borscht , while some of my more metropolitan books feature unique appetizers and cocktails .
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