Later that day at the Placa , Athens ’ magical centre that percolates with warmth and excitement , soft golden hues of evening lit hillside pathways surrounding the Acropolis and Parthenon . It was awkward to photograph the citadel and city rooftops with my left hand , but once again , I felt the past meld into the present .
Crete was next . On this warm and visually stunning island paradise , the pace of life is slow . Fuchsia bougainvillea line island highways and hills are covered with olive trees . Friendly tavernas serve fabulous food without fail .
But even in paradise , things can go wrong . The magical aura of life on Crete took a turn when I began to get itchy bites . I ’ ve always attracted biting insects , even when others are not bothered in the least . The numerous swollen bites on my forehead and face caused concern ; I worried they ’ d leave permanent scars . A pharmacist disagreed , assuring me they were only insect bites and would disappear . All the antihistamines , anti-itch creams , and potions ( including Cretan donkey-milk soap ) gave little relief . I vacuumed the walls hoping to clear our rental of insects . In the end , I concluded the culprit was the family dog .
Still , there was lots to see and do . Crete ’ s picture-perfect beaches , small villages , and home-style meals , served cheerfully in seaside restaurants , helped take my mind off the insect bites .
One evening , after a longawaited dip in the Mediterranean at Kalyves , our car battery died . Several friendly local gentlemen came to our aid . One dashed off on his bicycle , returning with a long extension
cord that was plugged into a socket in a nearby café . When this solution failed , the group of men conversed in Greek at length , then one commandeered a car and a set of battery cables . Success ! The motor turned over . Everyone cheered and waved as my husband and I headed back down the road to Rethymno .
We decided to follow up on another recommendation for swimming on the other side of the island . But , as we joined sunseekers at Plakias , the sea blackened , waves churned , and wind blew sand in our faces . Clearly the Greek gods were messaging us to stay out of the water . Knossos , Europe ’ s oldest city , near Heraklion on the north coast of Crete , was a must-see before setting off by ferry to Santorini . On Santorini we joined tourists from across the globe who flock to see this picturesque island ’ s iconic whitewashed cliffside villages , blue domed churches , and the glorious sunset at Oia . Alas , it was time to go home . On our first flight homeward , an object dropped from the luggage bin and hit my head . While walking to our next departure gate , I held an ice bag to my head , kindly provided by a flight attendant for my goose egg . But I didn ’ t let the misadventures prevail — Greece ’ s rich culture had already reignited my passion for life !
Delia McCrae taught high school Spanish in Edmonton , having earned a master ’ s from the University of Salamanca , Spain , to accompany her MEd from the University of Alberta .
news & views SPRING 2023 | 41