Berggasthaus Aescher , Ebenalp near Appenzell
Matterhorn from Stellisee near Zermatt
epitaphs such as “ Died on the Rothorn .” We loved this area so much that we returned a second day and started walking at the other end of the valley near the small car-free town of Corippo , a short climb from the bus stop . From there we walked to the iconic seventeenth-century stone bridge in Lavertezzo . As we approached , we became aware of someone with a rifle down below us closer to the river . We decided to just keep walking , and soon realized he was an actor in a film .
Years later , my husband and I stopped in Switzerland on various European vacations and used the same approach to hiking . From Brig , we took a train to Fiesch , then a gondola to the Eggishorn . From the upper terminus , we had a panoramic view of the Aletchgletcher , the largest glacier in the Alps and a World Heritage Site . We went for a walk from the lower station , but paths extended over the entire area in all directions .
On a return from Italy to Munich , we stopped in Appenzell in the east . Our hostess had provided us with a pass for three days on the lifts ; however , it was cold and wet and we had to make alternate plans . On our last morning , she called to the top of the Ebenalp and was told that it was sunny up there . As soon as the gondola left the ground , we were enveloped in the mist , but soon we came into the sunshine and saw the highest peaks sticking out above the clouds . Removing several layers of clothing , we set off on a path that circled the top of the mountain . We discovered a restaurant built into the hillside , and then traversed a monk ’ s cave before heading back up to the station .
One of our most memorable walks was the “ five lakes walk ” in Zermatt . It is quite a long walk if one completes the whole circuit from the Blauherd station , but even a walk to the first lake called Stellisee is spectacular as the famous Matterhorn is reflected in the calm lake . Unfortunately , this was the one occasion on which the inn where we thought to have lunch was not open , and we had to wait until we made it back to the lower Sunnegga station after the only uphill portion of the walk . Thankfully , we always carry water and snacks .
Switzerland offers so many opportunities for exploration whether you ’ re a young mountaineer or a nature lover and casual walker .
With a Swiss Pass you can travel easily on all modes of transportation including buses , trains , and boats , plus get a reduction on the hefty cost of many lift tickets . Wunderbar !
A retired teacher-librarian , Rosemary Kennedy lives in Calgary with her husband and travelling companion , Selim . She ' s seen out walking in Calgary every day without the aid of cable cars but often accompanied by friends .
news & views SPRING 2024 | 17